Bay of Islands

Discover Bay of Islands

A favourite fishing and boating playground, Bay of Islands has 144 islands in the ‘winterless’ north of the North Island. Bay of Island are renowned for their diverse marine life, is rated one of the world’s best cruising spots and world famous big game fishing.

There is an abundance of white -sand beaches seafood – snapper, John Dory, mussels and kina (sea eggs). Also, it is the annual spot for the 120-mile Coastal Classic Auckland to Russell (the capital) Yacht Race.

Exploring the Bay of Islands

Thank you to Boating NZ Magazine for this article!

John and Lyn Martin of the Island Cruising Association enjoy a seafood dinner on a sandbank near Urupukapuka Island as we continue our look at New Zealand’s favourite anchorages.

The Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand’s premier cruising spots. That’s what we tell the American and European cruisers migrating across the Pacific and here’s what one German cruiser had to say about it.

“I had heard that New Zealand was beautiful, you see it in the movies too. But you always have this nagging doubt that it won’t live up to your expectations. We made landfall off the Kari Kari Peninsula coming in from Tonga this year, then tacked down the coast. Wow! I couldn’t wait to get out in the Bay of Islands. Now that I have it’s exceeded expectation.”

That’s our own front yard he’s talking about. The Bay of Islands is only 15 miles by 10 miles, and offers some great sailing: flat water for the launch and fizz boats, a host of great places to stop for the day, and many safe anchorages for the night.

A great place to base yourself is Urupukapuka Island. It has half-a-dozen great anchorages and can be used as a hub to explore other bays and islands close by. We took a group out recently to explore, using Urupukapuka Bay on the south-east corner of the island as a base. It’s only three miles to Deep Water Cove, where the ex-Navy frigate Canterbury was sunk as a dive site, or two miles around the corner to Oke Bay. Three-hundred metres east of Urupukapuka Bay is Albert Channel. Going out, keep Hat Island (scarcely an island, more like a rock) to your port. The passage is deep (9m) and there is a green marker on Hat Island. Take care going through here, and keep a lookout for the big tourist boats, as they use this as a route to the Brett and it can get quite tight in the passage. Remember, port to port as a passing rule.

The Brett Peninsula is the eastern boundary of the Bay of Islands, and Deep Water Cove is on the north-western side. The hills rise steeply from the bay, and the water is deep close inshore, hence the name. Unless it’s very settled weather I don’t regard this as an overnight stop, but there is plenty to do here during the day, and it’s only half an hour to an all-weather anchorage. The bay is excellent in easterly winds, but does get a ground swell rolling round the corner.

Maunganui Bay in the north-eastern corner is the most protected, and there is a great walk to the Brett Light from there for anyone with a good pair of shoes and  medium to high fitness levels. If you are like me, the walk to the top of the ridge takes about half an hour and the view is well worth it.

The wreck of the Canterbury can be found in the north-western corner of the bay. She lies in 25m of water marked by two orange buoys; it’s a deep dive, so it’s recommended you go with a dive operator, and a donation should be made to the Canterbury Trust.

Heading south along the peninsula from Deep Water Cove, tucked in the south-east corner, is Oke Bay. Oke Bay comes as close to a perfect ten on my meter as you can get. Sheltered from the south, the bay has easy access, and a good sand bottom with great holding. At the head of the bay is a beautiful sandy beach surrounded by steep cliffs with water about 6m deep, 200m off the beach.

Oke Bay does suffer from roll if there is a north-east swell running. To the east there’s a creek that has been dammed and fitted with a pipe feeding water to the beach, and while it’s great for a shower or to do the washing, it’s probably not good for the tank as the water is infused with tea-tree and other humus.

There are scallops off Moturahurahu Island, towards the centre of the bay, and the odd cray has been found off the isolated rock between Moturahurahu Island and Kohangeatara Point (see photo). This rock also needs to be taken into account when navigating back to Albert Channel. You can walk to the Brett from here too, but it’s a much longer walk and quite rugged. There is a DoC hut at the Brett, which you can book if you want to stay overnight. Remember to let someone know your plans before you leave on a trek like this. A donation is also required to the local iwi – see the locals at Rawhiti, a 20-minute walk towards the end of the peninsula to the west.

Our visit to Oke Bay, on this occasion, was cut short by a north-east swell setting up a roll in the bay, so we headed back to Urupukapuka Bay for the night. Coming back in through the Albert Channel, keep Hat Island on the starboard side. This looks to be the narrow side, but the wider gap between Hat Island and Urupukapuka is foul and should only be navigated with local knowledge, particularly if there is any swell running.

The best spot in Urupukapuka Bay is tucked into the north-west corner; the bottom is sand, but there is some sea grass in the bay and care should be taken to set the anchor well. Good anchorages can be found in about 2.5-3m of water. Urupukapuka is great for walks, and there are marked trails around the island with fabulous views of the bay in both directions.
The next morning, after a walk ashore, we decided that the plan for the day was to get some seafood to go with the crays we got off Oke Bay. Some boats headed off to fish, while others were delegated to get mussels (there’s a great spot at low tide just north of Army Bay, see Boating December 09 for more details), and we headed off for scallops.

There are many good spots for scallops in Urupukapuka Bay. They love areas of sand with good current, preferably at the top of a rise in the seabed, and one such area is west of Poroporo Island, about a mile west of the anchorage. Our plan was to have the day to ourselves, get some plunder, meet up for a mid-afternoon beach barbecue, then anchor before nightfall. The venue for the barbecue was the sandbar that runs south of Ngatokaparangi Island (again, more like a rock) just south of Motukiekie Island. The tide was perfect, and at its lowest at 1600 (4pm).

Coming out of Urupukapuka Bay heading south, then west, you pass two other bays on Urupukapuka. The first one, just west of Round Island, is popular with campers, and there are good DOC facilities there. Be aware of a submerged power cable here – there’s a marker on the shore.

Further west is Otehei Bay: the entrance is shallow, 1.5m at low tide, but there is a hole in the bay. We’ve coaxed Windflower (2.1m draft) in there on the odd occasion, but our mission today was scallops.

One of the most reliable (the locals are going to lynch me for this) spots is between Poroporo Island and Paramena Reef, in about 5m depth at low tide. There is good current here, but not so strong as to be a factor while diving. The bottom is coarse sand, perfect for scollies – yum! The season is 1 September to 31 March and, if diving, the limits are 20 per person, plus 20 additional per helper (maximum two) with a bag limit per boat of 60. Minimum size for scallops when harvested (measure them on the bottom before you put them in your bag if you’re diving) is 100mm across the shell.

It didn’t take long to get a bag full, so we headed off to Paradise Bay on the west coast of Urupukapuka for the day. Paradise Bay and, just north of it, Otaio Bay, are sheltered in anything from the north and east. Good anchoring can be found in three to four metres on a good sand bottom. There is thick weed in Paradise Bay so set the anchor well before turning the key off.

After a relaxing day we headed over in the dinghy to the sandbar and met the others. We set up the barbie and played petanque, drank a little, and shared a wonderful seafood meal; the others had also been successful in their endeavours.

Just around the corner from Paradise Bay is the Waewaetorea Passage, between Urupukapuka Island and Waewaetorea Island. Depending on wind there is an anchorage on either side of the western end of the passage. These islands are great for a day trip, and the passage is fun to explore by dinghy or kayak. There are more great walks, and stunning views. There is also good diving along the northern face of Urupukapuka Island.

Our time was up. We don’t need to leave too early though – it’s only nine miles back into Opua at the end of the day.

The Bountiful Bay
In the third part of our series exploring New Zealand’s best anchorages, John and Lyn Martin of the Island Cruising Association visit Moturua and Roberton Islands in the Bay of Islands.

Coming back into the Bay of Islands after an ocean passage, I can’t help but smile. We have just finished a seven-month cruise from New Zealand to Tonga, on to Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia, and then back to Godzone. Little old New Zealand has some of the most breathtaking cruising in the world, and Lyn and I should know – we’ve seen our share of top spots.

New Zealand may be a tad cooler than the tropics, and there aren’t many swaying palm trees, but what it lacks is more than made up for in beauty and ease of cruising. There are also no pesky coral reefs. My favorite area to cruise in New Zealand is the Bay of Islands. An overnight sail from the City of Sails – roughly 120 sea miles – and you’re in this wonderful, compact cruising area where you can always find a comfortable anchorage, a place to stop for lunch, great walks and all the seafood a hunter-gatherer could need.
‘The Bay’, as the locals call it, is ideal for all kinds of boating. With two great marinas – Opua and Doves Bay – there is scope to bring your launch or yacht up for the summer and commute – or else just pay a passing visit. There are numerous launching ramps for trailer boats, kayaking is a great way to get intimate with the Bay, and there are plenty of places to camp if you need to.

Earlier this year we ran a rally from Auckland north to the Bay of Islands. Rounding Cape Brett we stopped at Deep Water Cove for lunch and a walk, then headed through Albert Passage. Be careful there, as the clear passage is through the narrow side between the rock and the headland; there’s a starboard mark on 
the rock.
Once inside the islands there is a heap of choices for a good night’s anchorage.

Moturua Island
Moturua Island has a couple of great night anchorages. The wind had been blowing from the north all day, so Pipi Bay (Awaawaroa Bay on the charts) was the first choice. You will also sometimes hear locals refer to this bay as ‘Honeymoon Bay’ – it’s a sheltered, deep cove on the south-eastern corner of the island.

During summer, DoC operates a rubbish barge just around the end of the point to the east. You will need to buy special rubbish bags from the local shops.

Pipi Bay has good depth close in, good holding in sand/mud, and is good in east through north to west winds, as are the two bays immediately to the west. South-west winds tend to get a bit sloppy, while Army Bay – just around the corner – is good in anything from west through to the south.

Care is needed anchoring at Army Bay (Waiwhapuku Bay on the chart), though – the bottom is hard papa (sand/mud stone) and if there is any swell from the north, it tends to set up a roll. It is however, a good place to anchor if you want to take advantage of the great walks on the island.

The next morning the weather was calm and we headed around to Army Bay for a walk. The headland at the north-eastern end of the island, adjacent to Army Bay, is a great short walk. There is a footpath up the steep bits and the views from the top give a great vista of the whole bay – probably why they put an observation emplacement there during World War II.
A more vigorous walk will take you around the whole island, and it’s well worth the effort. We usually take a clockwise route, as this gives the better views. The walk is about two hours and will show you a surprising range of flora and bird life.

The walk from the top of the island down to Waipoa Bay, for example, takes you through lush rainforest with lots of birds, along the beach to some wonderful wetlands, then over the hill to Mangahawaea Bay, which is a popular spot for a day anchorage with its white sand beach (there’s usually a roll in here), or a great place to take a break from your walk and have a picnic lunch or a swim. The views from the top of the hill heading back over to Army Bay are stunning, looking out over Urupukapuka Island to Piercy Island (‘Hole in the Rock’) and the Brett.

Once back at the boat after our walk, the wind was again in the north, so we decided to head around to Waipoa Bay for a quiet night. There are three nasties to watch for as you navigate around Moturua Island. Leaving Army Bay, heading through the north channel, watch for a shallow patch (1.2m on the chart) about 75 metres past Motutara Islet. Continuing anti-clockwise, look for the isolated rock off the north coast of the island, then heading south – between Roberton Island and Moturua – there’s another isolated reef on the approach to Waipoa Bay. Waipoa Bay is very pretty. Great in an easterly through to the north-west winds, it has a clear, sandy bottom, and good depth to about 100m off shore. Be sure to set your anchor as the sand is hard, and a good hold can’t be taken for granted. Once set though, the holding is good.

Waipoa Bay is also known as Hospital Bay. The explorer De Fresne built a temporary hospital ashore for crew suffering from scurvy, amongst other things. De Fresne, silly boy, lacked in diplomatic skills and ticked off the local Maori. To cut a long story short, he and some of his crew were killed just across the bay at Assassination Cove. Our choice of anchorage was perfect; the bay was flat-calm and we enjoyed sundowners and a game of petanque on the beach. This bay faces west and we watched a beautiful sunset. Then, as night fell, we were shrouded in stars.

Roberton Island
Our cruise was coming to an end and we were booked into a great little restaurant in Opua – Blue Water – for a farewell dinner, but we had the whole day to
get there.
Just across from Waipoa Bay is Roberton Island (Motuarohia Island on the chart). Lagoon Bay, on the southern side of the island, is the anchorage of choice. It’s an easy approach with no obstructions, although keep a lookout while anchoring, as there is an isolated rock about halfway along the beach, close inshore, that has snagged a few unwitting boaties.
There is good depth close in to the beach, although it shelves to the western end. The holding is good on sand, but we regard this as a day anchorage only as it is open to the south. It is, however, a great place to stop for the day, with plenty to do and see.

There are three lagoons: two that almost split the island, and one you can see from the walk to the lookout. Known as Smugglers Cove, it opens to the sea through a cave. The lagoons are a great place to kayak, and the main lagoon, in the centre of the beach, has a snorkel trail which can be followed from half-tide to full (the lagoons are almost empty at low tide).
The walk to the top is also well worth the effort: 124 steps in total to a panoramic view of the Bay of Islands.

Roberton is a popular picnic stop and there is a wide, flat area of grass beyond the beach. During summer the island is home to nesting dotterels and DoC staff fence off the nesting areas. It’s only seven sea miles (14km) into Opua from Roberton and less than four miles to historic Russell, or across the water to Paihia; there are shops at all three. Diesel is also available on the wharf at Russell, Paihia and Opua, as is water.

Petrol is not quite so easy and you will need to take jerry cans to the local service station in Russell, or to the Shell Station opposite the beach at Te Ti Bay on the Paihia side, or it is a five-minute walk to the Caltex station (which also does LPG)  on the road to Haruru Falls. There is also a well-stocked Woolworths supermarket opposite the Caltex station.

We left Roberton at about 4pm, giving us plenty of time to get settled in the marina at Opua, take advantage of the excellent facilities there, and grab a shower before dinner. Blue Water has a deck out over the water and we celebrated a great cruise in style as the sun set, watching the car ferry ply backwards and forwards to Okiato Point on the  Russell Peninsula.

All in all, a great couple of days in the Bay of Islands.

Lyn and John Martin
The Martins replaced Brian and Joan Hepburn at the helm of the Island Cruising Association in January 2007.
Lyn, a school teacher, grew up cruising the Hauraki Gulf on her family’s launch while John, an architect, sailed the Hauraki with his family as a youngster before campaigning his own Young 88 in local racing. The Martins were introduced to the joys of offshore sailing when they cruised Tonga and Fiji with their children Adam and Jenna as part of the 1995 ICA Pacific rally. They have since cruised most of the South West Pacific.